Rachel Grindlay

Tom & I spent four weeks in south-western USA primarily Utah, Colorado & Arizona. The main goal was canyoning but we ended up with quite a bit of hiking as well and even some via ferrata!

• Part 1: Zion & San Rafael Swell, Utah (Days 1 – 6)
• Part 2: North Wash, Utah  (Days 7 – 9)
• Part 3: Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP & Ouray, Colorado (Days 10 – 14)
• Part 4: Mesa Verde NP, Canyoning around Page, Colorato/Utah/Arizona (Days 15 – 20)
• Part 5: Arizona canyoning (Days 21 – 23)
• Part 6: Desert & Cacti, Arizona/California (Days 24 – 29)

I have a list of things we learnt from across our 3 trips (2013/2017/2024) which might be helpful to any Australians planning a canyoning trip to Utah.

Day	Date	km	Driving Time	Overnight at…
0	Fri 6 Sep	10		Las Vegas, NV
1	Sat 7 Sep	300	3h 21	Watchman Campground (Zion NP), UT
2	Sun 8 Sep	156	2h 17	Lava Point Campground (Zion NP), UT
3	Mon 9 Sep	170	2h 16	Point Supreme Campground (Cedar Breaks NM), UT
4	Tue 10 Sep	107	2h 18	Panguitch Lake Campground (Dixie NF), UT
5	Wed 11 Sep	336	3h 27	Dispersed camping, UT
6	Thu 12 Sep	85	1h	Green River, UT
7	Fri 13 Sep	185	2h 8	Dispersed camping, UT
8	Sat 14 Sep	0	0	Dispersed camping, UT
9	Sun 15 Sep	186	2h 45	Green River, UT
10	Mon 16 Sep	210	1h 56	Grand Junction, CO
11	Tue 17 Sep	141	2h 1	South Rim Campground (Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP), CO
12	Wed 18 Sep	119	2h 12	Amphitheater Campground (Uncompaghre SF), CO
13	Thu 19 Sep	11	23m	Amphitheater Campground (Uncompaghre SF), CO
14	Fri 20 Sep	12	27m	Amphitheater Campground (Uncompaghre SF), CO
15	Sat 21 Sep	120	1h 44	Friend’s place, CO
16	Sun 22 Sep	142	2h 27	Morefield Campground (Mesa Verde NP), CO
17	Mon 23 Sep	440	4h 43	White House Campsite (Grand Staircase-Escalante NM / Vermilion Cliffs NM), UT
18	Tue 24 Sep	205	2h 20	Big Water, UT
19	Wed 25 Sep	27	20m	Buckskin Gulch, UT
20	Thu 26 Sep	270	2h 51	Flagstaff, AZ
21	Fri 27 Sep	72	1h 6	Flagstaff, AZ
22	Sat 28 Sep	12	20m	Flagstaff, AZ
23	Sun 29 Sep	190	2h 15	Christopher Creek Campground, AZ
24	Mon 30 Sep	393	4h 53	Tucson, AZ
25	Tue 1 Oct	237	2h 42	Ajo, AZ
26	Wed 2 Oct	453	4h 57	Blythe, CA
27	Thu 3 Oct	195	2h 22	Ryan Campground (Joshua Tree NP), CA
28	Fri 4 Oct	51	55m	29 Palms, CA
29	Sat 5 Oct	315	3h 30	Plane

Total – approx 5,150km

Continued from Part 2

One of the issues with canyoning around Hanksville is the general isolation, and lack of mobile reception. When we’d headed into Maidenwater Canyon three days earlier the forecast had been for rain to come through on Monday. Without reception we didn’t know if that was going to come earlier/later/not at all until we got out late Sunday afternoon. I’d had some slightly nervous moments on Saturday night watching lightning in the distance and wondering if a storm was going to come through that night.

Regardless of weather, we needed to head to some form of civilisation because we needed to fill up water, and restock a few lunch supplies.

As it turned out the unstable weather, which had been due to come through on Monday would bypass the Hanksville area, and wouldn’t hit until late Monday. It looked like our new plan had us driving straight into it – but not wanting to make yet another plan we stuck with the new plan. And so we headed to Colorado – somewhere that hadn’t been on the itinerary at all – and my first time there.

It was a bit of culture shock to go from rural Utah towns to the slightly up-market foodie destination of Palisade! We had a lovely lunch at Carboy Winery with views out to Mt Garfield before doing the Palisade Rim (Lower) Hike. The second winery visit was slightly less relaxing as the wind battered the exposed deck we were sitting on and the rain snuck in the small gaps. We didn’t linger.

A saturated car park and heavy grey skies greeted us the next morning and made us feel good about the decision to stay in a motel. We sat around waiting for the weather and eventually headed off towards the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park – ever heard of it? No, neither had we until a couple of days earlier. The name apparently comes from the narrowness of the canyon – some points in the gorge only receive half an hour of sun a day.

Right on forecast the weather cleared in the early afternoon, just as we arrived at the park. So we set off on some short walks, and then drove around and enjoyed some of the overlooks at sunset. We did the remainder of the short walks / overlooks the next morning before moving on to Ouray.

We were lucky to secure a campsite at the Amphitheater Campground above Ouray and then set off to do Angel Creek Canyon. Ouray is famous for its Class C (flowing water) canyons, but being autumn the water levels were very tame. We hadn’t researched any of the canyons prior to the trip and definitely missed having RoadTripRyan. The RopeWiki descriptions weren’t always easy to match to reality.

Angel Creek Canyon

We came away a bit underwhelmed at how easy Angel Creek had been – but then chatting to a guy in the outdoors store he said he knew of a group that had to bail out of it because of rapidly rising water only a couple of weeks before. So despite what appeared to be very innocuous conditions I guess you’ve always got to be on top of possible dangers.

Not all of the creeks were tame – the Box Canyon, one of Ouray’s main attractions, was absolutely pounding – very impressive.

The next day we hit up the Ouray Via Ferrata. There’s two routes – the Upstream and Downstream, which both start from the same place. The outdoors store guy had told us doing the Upstream route first, if we were planning to do both, was the more efficient, so that was our plan. The Upstream Route (VF Grade: 4.5B) is the harder of the two and we quickly found out that it wasn’t going to be an easy ramble – a step up from anything we had done in the Dolomites. Almost immediately we were doing slightly overhung moves and wondering if we’d got ourselves in over our heads. Fortunately the difficulty ebbed and flowed and we managed to make it through the route – albeit with much more of a workout than expected.

Ouray Via Ferrata – Upstream Route

We had a late morning tea (as it was already after midday) before wandering back down the track, to the start, to do the downstream route. The Downstream Route (VF Grade: 4B) was more scenic – the gorge in that section was more attractive, and it was easier. Though our hands were pretty worn after the morning so Tom, in particular, found it a bit trying. It would have been challenging had we done them the other way around! The end of the Downstream Route is at the car park so we were then able to head into town for a very late lunch near Cascade Falls.

Ouray Via Ferrata – Downstream Route

Ouray is well-known for its hot springs, so it seemed wrong not to visit them. A couple of hours soaking in the outdoor pools with the beautiful backdrop was wonderful.

The outdoor store guy had also suggested that Oak Creek water levels might be at a level we were comfortable with, so that was where we headed first thing the next day. Ouray is already at 2,400m and we had a solid 350m climb to start the day, to take us to the highest altitude canyon we’ve done. (We did visit Pleiades near Moab in 2013 which I think is higher but given it was covered in snow(!) we didn’t descend it). We weren’t really clear if autumn flow conditions warranted wetsuits but we figured we should play it safe and after much wriggling we were suited up and ready to go.

Lower Oak Creek

Lower Oak Creek has 9-ish rappels, the highest 40-odd metres down a waterfall. Even in the low flow conditions I got pretty wet on the way down – though Tom tells me that’s because I took a poor line. But he didn’t get to pop into the alcove behind the flow and ‘enjoy the unique view’. Our feet were pretty cold, but other than the main waterfall we weren’t really in the water very much above knee height.

It was very easy to tell when we’d got to the end as there’s a pedestrian bridge crossing the creek. After we’d de-wetsuited and packed up all our gear it was time for all the hikers to walk past. It was quite funny when they started asking how far it was to go etc, and us trying to explain we had no idea as we had not got to that spot by hiking. We got back into town in time for an earlier lunch than the previous day.

As we hadn’t yet done Portland Creek, the other Ouray beginner canyon, we figured we better do it that afternoon. We’d driven over Portland Creek several times already, as it’s on the road to the campground we were staying at. In fact the first rap is under the bridge you drive over. It was a short but scenic canyon. You just don’t get canyons like that in Australia where you can basically drive to the start, and so your entire trip is just the canyon – no real time spent on an approach/exit hike. It feels like cheating!

Portland Creek

The weather was due to turn again the next day so it was sadly time to move on.

Continued from Part 1

Maidenwater Canyon

We took advantage of the 11am checkout before heading to the Maidenwater canyons on the Ticaboo Road. We chose the middle fork as the beta suggested it rarely held water, compared to the other forks – we’d had enough of being wet the day before!

There were plenty of downclimbs and it was a good opportunity to try and get our heads back in the downclimbing game. Unfortunately when there’s only two of you and you’re partner-assisting on climbs there’s no one to take photos. At one stage I meat-anchored Tom and then I had to stand on his head to get down – would have been a great photo I’m sure. We’re not quite out of the canyon game yet!

From there, we headed to Poison Springs where we were hopefully meeting some friends of a friend to canyon the next day. I heard the others arrive late that night, but Tom had slept through. We’d been told it would likely be a late start (10am), but I don’t think I’d quite believed it until we wandered up to where they had camped at 8:30am and everyone was fast asleep. As it turned out Tom & I probably could have run a canyon that morning as we didn’t get going until after 11am… but that wasn’t the point of the day – the point was to go canyoning with other people!

It was a motley crew from Salt Lake City and Durango – many of whom hadn’t met until that weekend (lots of friends of friends). With 2 Rachels and 2 Coreys, along with Zac, Tom & Val it meant remembering names wasn’t too tricky!

Tom & I put our vote in for doing Constrychnine first as we’d done the other two Poison Spring canyons in 2013. No one else had much of an opinion so off to Constrychnine we went.

Constrychnine Canyon

The first drop is 40m off a deadman anchor, and we spent a lot of time here, as we politely worked out everyone’s skills and who should be doing what… You forget how long it takes to get 7 people down long abseils even if you’re working efficiently, and with the next one being 55m, and then a subsequent 30m one, we spent a lot of time in the canyon! That meant we had plenty of time to get to know everyone.

Just as we thought it was over there was one final drop, with no anchor, for us to overcome. Most of us were meat-anchored down, and a deadman/cairn anchor was set for the LAMAR.

Funnily enough, as it was around 5pm by the time we’d climbed out, there wasn’t too much enthusiasm to do a run through Arscenic to finish the day. Instead we had a great evening socialising, aided by an amazing spread of snacks, and dinner provided by (Durango) Rachel. Tom & I were most grateful for everyone’s welcome & hospitality, particularly given we didn’t have anything delicious to contribute. And it was nice to have someone to talk to other than Tom 🙂

The next morning I was keen to get moving and make use of the day as the following day the unstable weather was coming back. Eventually we said our goodbyes and headed off to do Shillelagh Canyon.

Shillelagh Canyon (East fork)

We arrived just as another couple were preparing to do the same thing – we followed them up to the start where they insisted we go ahead as they were just learning. The anchors on the rappels had been extended to avoid rope-grooving. This made the starts quite tricky as you needed to get a long way over the edge before you weighted the rope.

Coupled with the tricky starts, the bottom of rap 2 had a muddy pool. Fortunately Tom was able to do a somewhat stretchy traverse around it – and then was able to haul me across. I suspect the two beginners behind us would have found things a bit more difficult!

We had an early lunch back at the car and debated what to do for the rest of the day.

Eventually we settled on Angel Slot Canyon even though it involved more dirt roads. Fortunately this was probably the best quality dirt road we’d encountered – though there were three quite sandy sections which may have been tricky without AWD. It was super windy when we arrived at the high, exposed car park and we were happy when we eventually got into the slot.

Angel Slot Canyon

Though depending on which way the canyon was running we were having sand blow into our eyes which made bits of it very unpleasant! Overall it was a high quality canyon with plenty of downclimbing and very speccy views on the way out.

From there we had a shake at Stan’s in Hanksville for old times’ sake before another motel night in Green River – yes, we’re getting soft.

Continue to Part 3

It had been 7 years since our last trip to the canyons of Utah. There hadn’t been a lot of canyoning done in Australia during that time either – what with bushfires, floods and Covid in the last 4 years.

I thought I’d set a relatively unambitious schedule with easier canyons – nothing overly exciting on the list. But even that seemed like it might be too ambitious when Tom managed to magic up some bruised (actually more likely fractured as it turned out) ribs the week before we left. Great.

Things didn’t start well when the airline moved our flight 24 hours and didn’t bother to inform us. Fortunately I had logged on to check the flights and noticed – so we managed to fly only 10 hours delayed rather than 24 hours.

As we had learnt from our 2013 and 2017 trips it’s not worth trying to get out of Las Vegas on the first day. Due to the change of flights it was just as well we weren’t planning to, as we didn’t get in till 10pm. That didn’t stop us accepting free (crappy) champagne from the concierge at our hotel though.

Feeling groggy (from the jetlag!) the next morning we set off on the unpleasant task of trying to buy supplies for a month living out of the car. This isn’t fun at the best of times, let alone when you’re jet-lagged and in a foreign country with strange things lining their supermarket shelves. I quickly felt justified at bringing full-fat milk powder, untoasted muesli and cup-a-soup packets with us, as nothing resembling these were available in the supermarket we went to.

Shopping took most of the morning and it was after lunch before we were on our way to Zion. We had hoped to shop the previous day and have time for a longer canyon but as things were we settled for Ghost Rider. The idea was that this would just get our heads in the game. We watched in horror as the car temperature climbed to 110°F (43°C) as we drove across the desert. Ghost Rider wasn’t far off our route so we figured we’d give it a go anyway – the canyon was only supposed to take an hour.

I don’t think I’d registered it was in limestone country so any hope of it getting us used to the grippy sandstone were dashed.

We didn’t melt and it wasn’t long before we were driving through Springdale with lots of fond memories of previous trips. The advantage of arriving late was there was no queue to get into Zion National Park! The temperatures did not abate overnight and we had a sticky low of ~30°C.

Much like our 2017 trip I had scheduled Boundary for the first couple of days. And much like our 2017 trip Tom decided he wasn’t physically up for it. The forecast was a bit unstable as well – possible thunderstorms. I lay there trying to think of alternatives and finally came up with what I thought was a great option – Middle Echo – we’d really enjoyed it in 2013, we didn’t have drive anywhere, there seemed to be permits available, and it wasn’t too big a day. Except then I realised that the access point within Zion was closed due to rockfall. So much for that idea.

We’d never been to the Kolob side of Zion and I had Lava Point Campground booked for that night. So the compromise plan was to do a hike in that area. It was only the next morning when I looked at things a bit more closely that I realised Lava Point was not really anywhere near the Kolob hiking area. Needless to say there was a little bit of frustration creeping in as nothing was going quite to plan.

Not having a better option we decided we’d just head to Taylor Creek anyway. We had a pleasant (if hot) hike out to the Double Arch Alcove. After that we headed to the Timber Creek Overlook Trail which had excellent views of the Zion area. I can’t believe we hadn’t been here previously!

We were forced to have a stop in La Verkin for a cold drink as the jetlag and hot weather combination was making it dangerous to keep driving. Eventually we did safely arrive at our campsite at Lava Point. We were very happy to get up in altitude and to some lower temperatures. While we were setting up there were thunderstorms rolling around, and we eventually retreated to the car as the rain came through.

I still had hopes for Boundary and was trying to convince Tom we should do it the next day. There were still possible thunderstorms forecast but I thought if we got up really early we should be able to beat them. But eventually between Tom’s ribs and the forecast we decided it wasn’t the best idea and we’d just do what the original schedule had called for and head to Benson Creek.

We didn’t take the optimal driving route and so it was a bit later than planned when we arrived – and there were ominous grey clouds positioned right over the canyon. Needless to say I was a little nervous as the thunder rolled around our heads as we marched up the trail. On the plus side it was a short canyon, and the terrain seemed to have some soil to capture the run-off if it did start raining.

We managed to get through Benson Creek narrows in less an hour without the weather deteriorating any further. We then made the (foolish?) decision to have lunch at the picnic area just below the canyon. Most of it was spent huddled under a tree as it spat on us. Just as we were finishing up the rain really started coming down. So there was more huddling, but eventually we sucked it up and marched back to the car in the rain. Why would I bring a raincoat for a trip like this/with a forecast like this?!

From there we headed up to Point Supreme Campground, at 10,300 feet (3,100m), the highest place we’d ever camped. No worries about the hot weather here! In fact us, along with many others, spent a couple of hours that afternoon hiding in the Cedar Breaks National Monument Visitors Centre while it alternated rain and hail. It cleared and we were able to set up a dry tent, and even get a nice sunset at one of the view points.

We checked out the Southern Rim Hike the next morning which was excellent – though the altitude did make it harder going than it would have been normally. The light was stunning.

From there we drove to an even higher point – Brian Head at 11,307ft / 3446m this was the highest either of us had ever been. No work to do it for it either as there was a road to the high point. Then we did the Twisted Forest hike for lunch. I enjoyed it so much I did it twice… when I realised I’d left my drink bottle at our lunch spot. Fortunately it was only a 40 minute return march the second time round!

Not content with our activities for the day we finished off with a visit to Mammoth Cave which is a lava tube which I wriggled through, but Tom decided his ribs wouldn’t thank him for it, so he contented himself with photography instead.

Another (not quite as) high camp that night at Lake Panguitch kept us at a good temperature, but the next day we descended down to the San Rafael Swell. We had another short (2-3 hours) canyon on the agenda – Lupacchiotta Canyon. This one involved just parking on the side of the Interstate highway.

Rather than following the directions Tom decided we could navigate better. But he’d forgotten about cryptobiotic soil – you shouldn’t just march cross-country as you bust open the protective soil, so we had a slow and inefficient approach avoiding all the crypto. Should have just followed the instructions!

Our intended camp for the night while very close as the crow flies, required us to be on the other side of the interstate and it was 12 miles of driving before we were able to turn-around and drive back 14 miles or so. It was a slow drive in to our intended campsite as we spent plenty of time checking out various sections of the road before proceeding, but we got there eventually.

The next day was the first ‘big’ one of the trip – in that it was a full day and not a half day or less. We set off early to try and get the cross-country done before the heat of the day.

We weren’t too happy to find ourselves with some waist-deep wades with associated goopy mud as we progressed up Forgotten Canyon. The beta we had promised “This is NOT a route for beginners, nor for those looking for a slot canyon adventure. It IS a route for those looking for an elegant and challenging route with a little bit of technical rope work. The route requires good navigation skills, route finding, and most of all, good judgment. In several spots, there is relatively easy, but very exposed climbing. Not for the faint of heart or inexperienced.”

The exposed climbing was not going to be fun with our shoes covered in mud. And our judgment proved correct – we got to the crux climb and stuffed around trying to overcome it. The slickrock that I think we were meant to just walk up just wouldn’t stick our shoes. I tried climbing the corner and couldn’t get up the very top. I tried climbing the dryfall but wasn’t bold enough to get up the final section. Eventually Tom had a go at the corner and managed to get up, and then was able to belay me up the dryfall (easy when you’re on a rope!). And after all the time we spent there I didn’t take a single photo of that section…

Once up the crux, we made it up Forgotten and over the mesa and back into Eagle with little issue. Though we did rim walk the upper narrows in Eagle since we could see they were wet. Eventually we got to the short technical section in Eagle – it looked very wet! Time for lunch then before we got saturated.

As this was a route that isn’t done that frequently and it seemed like it had probably flashed recently I was a bit nervous about the anchors – particularly for the final rap which was a log. Without knowing the nature of the log you’re never sure if it’s one that’s going to stick around for years or one that will get washed away with the next flood.

Subsequently we took a very conservative approach to the technical section – leaving ropes in place and checking out anchor options before proceeding. The final log was in place (phew) but with only a sling draped over it (not around it – maybe washed down from elsewhere?) so more time spent replacing that. The final rap took us in to a large pool with a 10m swim to get out of. Probably over an hour to get through 150m at most of canyon.

We were relieved to be out of it (and in the sun so we could warm up after several swims), only to find the next section was not only wet but the wet was black, rotting vegetation. No way was I going through that if I could help it! Fortunately we were able to rim walk and then step across the canyon at a narrow section and climb down past the worst of it. Winning!

Back to the car at 4:45pm it had truly been a long day. It would have been great to camp another night where we were but we stank. And I was happier to get out that night so I wouldn’t spend the night worrying about whether the car would get stuck. So to Green River and a motel – bliss!

Continue to Part 2

Return to Main Trip Page

King’s Birthday weekend was coming up, and taking the rest of the week off seemed like a great way to get 10 days off in a row with minimal annual leave burnt. But where to go?

Carnarvon Gorge has been on my to-do list for a long time. Not sure exactly why – possibly because it’s mentioned in the back of Rick Jamieson’s Canyons Near Sydney book. (Not that Carnarvon Gorge is near Sydney!). Every time I’ve looked at it before I’ve been overwhelmed with how far away it is from everywhere, but this time it seemed like 10 days might be just enough time to make it worthwhile. Do we fly or drive? Tom convinces me that it’s probably easier just to drive since then we can take all our gear from home and not worry about weight limits on the plane. Slightly dreading the 1500km we have to drive each way I agree.

Day 1: Sydney to Quirindi (350km/4 hours)

We knock off the first 4 hours of driving on Thursday night after work. This puts us in striking distance of breakfast in Narrabri and then the opportunity to visit two areas we didn’t make it it to our on our previous visit to Mount Kaputar National Park – Sawn Rocks and Waa Gorge.

Day 2: Quirindi to Nindigully Pub (573km/7 hours)

The schedule for the second day was pretty tight, but we managed to make up some time with the overly generous national park estimates for how long Waa Gorge would take to explore. We figured that gave us time to stop for coffee in Moree… but we’d failed to note where One Ton Post in Mungindi actually was. And had no reception – rather than just drive until we found signs we tried to find it (on the wrong side of the Barwon River). Any time we’d made up in Waa Gorge was squandered, but we made it into Nindigully Pub just on 5pm. We were somewhat disappointed that the thick stands of trees surrounding the pub obscured much of what had promised to be a good sunset.

The pub was pumping and we somewhat accidentally found ourselves in the food queue, which was just as well, as otherwise we may not have got our first choice order. Live entertainment by Adam Kilpatrick was excellent – I couldn’t have pictured a more stereotypical Queenslander! (Maroons shirt & cap, stubbies & thongs… in 6°C) We particularly enjoyed his full rendition of American Pie towards the end of his set.

Day 3: Nindigully Pub to Carnarvon Gorge (491km/5.5 hours)

The next day was an early start, our preferred way to tackle a long driving day, getting a couple of hours of driving under the belt before breakfast (in Surat). With the schedule already falling behind we didn’t do the full riverside walk but it was good to stretch the legs out.

Roma’s supermarkets seemed packed with people like us stocking up for a few days. We managed to get in and out fairly quickly before lunch at Injune, in June (never gets old I’m sure). The only option was the pub of which we were 2 of 4 patrons. It’s hard to imagine the economics work – but I assume it must get busier at night. The chips were some of the best I’ve ever had – so crunchy!

By the time we got into the Caravan Park at Carnarvon Gorge mid-afternoon I was ready not to do much for the rest of the day. Originally we had thought we might go and do a walk, but setting up camp, and not having to think for half an hour won out. That said there was a lookout to visit for sunset and some supposed platypus viewing to be had. Sadly, we didn’t look at the map properly and so spent a good 20 minutes looking for platypus at the swimming hole instead of the platypus area. Then mistimed our arrival at the lookout for sunset. Quickly dashing back to the actual platypus pool we did get to spot one before it swam off downstream away from where we were allowed to go. Ah well, can’t have it all. With a new moon the sky was dark and clear, the stars were phenomenal. It was also good to know we didn’t have any real driving for the next 4 days.

Day 4: Carnarvon Gorge caravan park to National Park entry (Driving: 6km / 15 min)

Another relatively early start, complicated by needing to pack overnight packs for the next few nights. But we managed to be walking by 9am which was the goal. The vegetation was so lush – not really what I was expecting. It really didn’t feel like we were in Outback Queensland. We did all the side-trips as we walked up the gorge; the Moss Garden, the Amphitheatre, the Art Gallery and Cathedral Cave. Wards Canyon was closed due to flood damage.

Around one of the communal fires the previous night we’d met a couple of young guys who were heading out on the Great Walk and camping at Big Bend like us that evening. We kept leap-frogging them through the day – though they were doing was more exercise than us, as we dumped our packs at the junctions, whereas they were carrying them in and out on all the side trips. We also explored up an unwritten up side creek, which ended up being quite a lovely section of gorge/canyon.

Eventually we made it to Big Bend – the last arrivals for the day, with 6 others already set-up. As such we got the ‘worst’ pick of the campsites, but we were happy enough with it that we didn’t bother moving when everyone else cleared out the next morning.

We chatted with the two young guys until it got dark and cold. They headed for their tents, and we rugged up. Another couple from Cairns shared the picnic table with us while we had dinner. The third couple barely left their tent, so we never spoke to them. It was pretty cold, and the Cairns couple headed to bed by 6pm. That left me & Tom partying until 8pm.

Day 5: No driving!

It was a chilly night, we slept really well and after all our early starts were happy to have a sleep in. Our relaxed start meant we didn’t get away from camp until almost 10am. A day of exploring up-gorge with no real goals meant timing was pretty flexible. We had a successful day poking our heads up a number of gorges, generally getting stopped by some sort of chockstone block-up.

Back at camp we had a new cohort of campers. Mum & 2 young daughters who were obviously experienced campers and quite precocious, plus a couple from Mackay on their final day of the Great Walk. They spoke of how cold it had been at the higher camps of the previous few nights. It seemed slightly warmer than the night before but still pretty chilly and yet again we were the only ones up at the late hour of 8pm.

Day 6: No driving!

On day 6 we were back to an early start, aiming to get up Battleship Spur in the cooler part of the morning. Not that it had been particularly warm during the day (maybe 19°C?), but a 500m ascent is a 500m ascent. What a delightful walk – the start of Boowinda Gorge was quite impressive, the scramble up the gully onto the ridge, then the ridge walking was excellent, before traversing across the tops to the lookout. We had a perfect day for it, and it was really enjoyable.

It took us 2 hours from camp to the lookout which was great timing for morning tea.

Eventually we decided we better head back down. Everything had a slightly different perspective going the other direction. We enjoyed watching a couple of wedge-tailed eagles soaring just overhead, and Tom got to photograph the orchids we’d rushed past on the way up.

Back down in Boowinda Gorge, we headed upstream. I wasn’t really feeling it so I let Tom keep going while I found a nice flat rock to lie on. The sun vanishes early from the gorge in winter, and it was pretty chilly in the gorge, so it wasn’t quite as relaxing as it could have been. Tom eventually reappeared and said he’d found a flowing canyon only 9 minutes upstream. So we headed up to that, but I decided I didn’t need to go past the section where wading was required (Tom already had).

On the way back down the gorge we had an unusual encounter. Two wedge-tailed eagles were perched in a tree in the gorge – seemed unusual, but maybe they roost there for the night?

It was a lot milder that evening – I didn’t even put my down jacket on till after 7pm. We had a full party around the picnic table – Mum & her daughters were still there, plus a couple from Kingaroy on their first overnight hike, and a couple from Brisbane just starting the Great Walk. Despite the mild(er) temperatures we were still the last ones up – at 8pm!

Day 7: National Park entry to Carnarvon Gorge caravan park (Driving: 6km / 15 min)

Day 7 was another full schedule so up early again – but to be fair when you’re going to sleep by 9pm, that’s still over 9 hours sleep with a 6:30am wake-up. The first half of the walk back down Carnarvon Gorge passed very quickly. The first of the day trippers we encountered quite early – unfortunately one of them had fallen in at Creek Crossing 10. We’d seen 2 people slip in there while having lunch on our first day. So beware crossing 10! The second half dragged a bit as we both waited for the turn off for Boolimba Bluff to appear. Eventually it did. We stashed our packs and walking on air with only day packs as we headed up to the lookout. The ‘steep and rugged’ walk up the gully reminded me of the Devil’s Hole in Katoomba and was lovely as it was in the shade. Apparently we’re fitter than we thought as we overtook quite a few people on our way up.

I obviously wasn’t that impressed with the view as I didn’t see fit to include a photo!

We were back at the visitors centre in time for lunch. We almost lost lunch to a determined kookaburra but fortunately it didn’t manage to make off with most of our cheese.

Post lunch we still had Mickey Creek, and side creek Warrumbah Creek that doesn’t even get a mention on the map, to do so Tom said there was no time for me to have a coffee. Boo. Turned out to to be a good thing, since by the time we’d been up the upper left fork and upper right fork of Mickey Creek and then explored a long way up Warrumbah Creek there wasn’t that much time left in the afternoon.

Turns out we left the best for last. Warrumbah Creek was a stunner. I think the other canyons may have felt a bit disappointing if we’d done this one first. Tom went a bit further than me, as I wasn’t keen to have wet shoes to go back down the flimsy branch we’d balanced on to get up the canyon. He didn’t get much further though as he came to a chest deep section, followed by a tricky looking climb up. With his camera/phone/gps in his short pockets it made it an easier choice to turn around.

Back at the Caravan Park we prioritised platypus viewing over sunsets. The first pool didn’t provide much, so we wandered to the second one. Almost immediately I spotted some churned up dirt and bubbles. Bingo! We ended up watching two platypus swim about for half an hour. The closest view I’ve ever got of one. It was an excellent end to the trip.

Day 8: Carnarvon Gorge caravan park to Toowoomba (611km / 7 hours)

Surprisingly (not), day 8 was an early start. We had an excellent breakfast in Injune (the sole cafe is open in the mornings), before stops in Chinchilla and then Dalby to stretch our legs walking along the river. I’d left booking accom to the last minute, and lots of motels in Toowoomba were full. Eventually I found us a much nicer room than I would have normally booked – and for once I took advantage of having a spa bath to soak my legs which were feeling the 4 days of walking.

Day 9: Toowoomba to Girraween National Park (191km / 2 hours 20 min)

We had a relaxing start to the day as we only had a couple of hours of driving and a similar amount of walking. Despite being our first visit to Girraween National Park we eschewed the popular walks and instead headed to the Mt Norman side to walk into a remote bush camp site I’d booked. I don’t think I’d appreciated the walk in was entirely on fire trail, but it was, so we made quick work of the 8km. Unfortunately the blue skies we’d started the day with were now grey clouds which didn’t bode that well for photography.

Tom directed us to a track which led around the back of South Bald Rock and eventually up to the granite. At that stage I was wondering why we hadn’t camped closer to the summit as the thought of retracing the route after dark (or before sunrise) was a bit daunting. However, once on top it looked like we might be able to walk off the front back to camp.

Unfortunately it then started raining – that was not in the forecast! I’d been so casual about the forecast I hadn’t even brought a raincoat. Fortunately there was a large overhanging boulder near by so we sheltered under that with our happy hour while the rain blew through. In the scheme of things we couldn’t have done much better.

The rain stopped for sunset but there was a bit too much cloud for anything spectacular. We made it back to the tent before the next lot of rain came through, so I got lucky on my lack of raincoat.

Day 10: Girraween National Park to Armidale (265km / 3 hours 10 min)

Tom’s description of the morning didn’t make me rush out of bed to join him for a pre-sunrise hike back up South Bald Rock. I enjoyed being warm in bed while he went seeking sunrise. We walked out straight after breakfast and were back at the car by 11am. A bit earlier than expected – I was a bit over the walking – the weather combined with the fire trail made the trip a bit disappointing.

Instead we turned to the other thing we often do on roadtrips – wine tasting! Only 15 minutes up the road was Queensland’s premiere (and only!) wine region. We found ourselves at a winery with a generous lunch platter and tasting flight – an excellent way to spend a couple of hours before hitting the road to Armidale.

Day 11: Armidale to Sydney (480km / 5 hours 30 min)

We decided to take Thunderbolt Way back to Sydney – looking forward to a breakfast stop at the patisserie in Gloucester. We were very nearly too late as we secured the final two vanilla slices! Though to be honest I think the sausage roll was probably more impressive. Breaking the trip up we had coffee in Stroud, before the final push back home.

Total 2983km